Ever wonder how to make the body work and paint on your ride look old when its NOT???
The following is a www.ratroduniverse.com trade secret we have learned when it comes to Patina!
Step #1 Remove as much or as little paint as you need. Expose the bare steel.
Step #2 Strip the paint by using “Aircraft Stripper” do not waste time with any other product (this is the best product).
Step #3 Make sure the steel is bare and completely clean (a little sanding will ensure the steel is bare).
Step #4 Apply regular store bought “vinegar”…this is the secret in pickling steel.
Step #5 Apply using any simple spray bottle, it may take a few applications.
Step #6 Within a few minutes the steel will turn orange and the Patina (rust) will set in!
Step #7 Over the next couple of days you can re-apply and the Patina (rust) will deepen. 
Step #8 Your shop will smell like pickles for the next few days….don’t worry you’ll get used to it.

 

29 Responses to “Instant (rust) Patina / Make it look 50 years old in minutes!”

  1. Jose Rodriguez says:

    Great Info. I’m gonna try this on my rat. Thanks

  2. Bill Newcomb says:

    Hey guy,
    Doesn’t salt water do the same thing?

  3. admin says:

    Yeah,
    Salt water will do the same thing, but just take a whole lot longer. I have done some testing and you might spend 6 months to get the result you want with salt water. Meanwhile the corrosion is actually doing it’s job…eating your metal. The beauty of vinegar is that you can get the flash rust that you want and then seal it with clear laquer or even WD40. I know this sounds like a crude method, but the result is the visual patina “rust” with out destroying your car. You want it to flash rust and then STOP!

  4. noodle says:

    What keeps the rust from kust rusting thru?

  5. Bill says:

    I undercoat the back side of all the metal to keep my cars from rusting thru!

  6. kansascagerz says:

    And you do not know, how it is possible to find the author and to talk to it concerning this information. Someone can knows it ICQ?

  7. Adobe says:

    Very great report, very clear, deep analyze and easy to understand.
    Thank for your share.

  8. Goodmorning
    awesome post – i’m creating video about it and i will post it to youtube !
    if you wana to help or just need a link send me email !

  9. OEMSoftware says:

    Thank you for this information. You have done a great job. So many figures, everything is so exactly. Now we can see all demografic picture of the alection.Thank you for highlighting this. Keep up your work.

  10. medtopix says:

    The author of the rights and a material really interesting. I will subscribe on RSS

  11. OEMSoft says:

    Really informative post. Thanks for sharing

  12. admin says:

    Yeah.
    Send me the link and keep me posted.
    Roger

  13. Shopider says:

    Used earlier and more I will blog for people to do.

  14. biomedtalk says:

    My opinion is a bit another how it is possible to talk to the author, for example on an e-mail?

  15. admin says:

    Yes,
    Please email me at ratroduniverse@live.com
    Thanks Roger

  16. Privatik says:

    Blog liked, but a lot of unnecessary comments.

  17. Comprehensive-Insurance-838 says:

    hm. hope to see same more info

  18. ParchdoXa says:

    You have tested it and writing form your personal experience or you find some information online?

  19. Roger says:

    This is my personal experience. I am a painter by trade and these are actual pictures of my truck.It’s a 1951 Studebaker pick-up. It is posted on my site. http://www.ratroduniverse.com
    GO check it Out!

  20. admin says:

    This is my personal experience. I am a painter by trade and these are actual pictures of my truck.It’s a 1951 Studebaker pick-up. It is posted on my site. http://www.ratroduniverse.com
    GO check it Out!

  21. Accounting says:

    I fully agree with the author.

  22. Pat Gilroy says:

    SO DO I. nice site buddy!!!

  23. tim foyley says:

    Hey D-bag. Good write up. The only question I have for you is this. How do you remove the paint quickly and effeciently? I know about the stripper but what hand tools do you use??? TIM

  24. Metal Geek says:

    My first forays into making steel rust involved muriatic acid, which is dirt-cheap and available at most hardware stores. Used full strength, muriatic acid will pickle steel, removing rust and scale. However, if you treat the steel with a very diluted solution of muriatic acid, it will rust fairly rapidly. This usually takes a few treatments and a couple of days with the weather cooperating (humid and warm is best). It’s not a perfect method, and it never really works the same way twice. I don’t know if it’s the variations in the steel, the weather, or just getting the acidity exactly right, but it always seems to take a lot of attention and messing about to get the finish right. And I always ended up with dead grass followed by mossy patches in the yard.

    After several years of pursuing this method, I’ve found that the big trick to getting steel to rust quickly and well is to use a mildly acidic solution that has a little copper dissolved in it. I doubt that the small amount of copper used would provide any future protection against corrosion. It might even be that the steel will corrode quicker than if it wasn’t treated, but I have no idea if it would make for much of a difference.

    Getting some copper into the solution is easier than you might think. Muriatic acid dissolves copper, although it’s pretty slow. What I did was to take about 2 feet of 14 gauge copper ground wire stripped out of a piece of Romex, wrapped it into a coil, and soaked it in about 2 ounces of Muriatic acid for a week. This will make a concentrate which should be enough for at least half a gallon of patina solution. A sturdy, unbreakable plastic bottle would be a good thing to prepare the concentrate in. Don’t screw down the lid tight, or it might explode from the gasses that are created by the acid working on the copper. The fumes coming from the acid will cause rapid rusting on any bare steel nearby, so be careful where you put it. And be sure to label it appropriately. If you’re as forgetful as I am, you won’t even remember where you put it after a week. And it’s not the kind of thing you want to sniff to find out what it is. You’ll be sorry if you do. I promise.

    After a few days, the solution should be ready to use. The copper wire will still be there, but you should see that the acid has chewed into it a bit. Once the acid has got some copper in it, the greenish acid/copper mixture will deposit a bright layer of copper on a piece of clean steel that you dip into it. This is a pretty cool effect, but it won’t last. The coating is extremely unstable and will soon be replaced by rust. You don’t really want to use it like that anyway, as it will go a lot farther and be a lot less dangerous if you dilute it with water. You may have to play with the ratio, but somewhere between 20/1 to 100/1 of water to acid/copper solution should work well. If you apply it with a spray bottle, just realize that it won’t be long for the world. The acid will eat the spring in the bottle, so it will quit working after a few days. The only thing I’ve found that really works longer is a little plastic hand-pump Hudson sprayer that has no metal in it.

    The rust will appear more evenly if your steel is very clean and free of the scale that you find on hot-rolled products (but I don’t really care about that – it can look more interesting if it’s not all that consistent). If you can’t clean the steel properly, a more concentrated solution may work better, but be very careful. You definitely want to wear rubber gloves and eye protection, and do it outdoors standing upwind of your work. You probably want to do this even if you’re using the diluted solution, at least if you care about your life.
    As usual, a few words of caution. This is merely my attempt to impart some information that may or may not be useful. The potential dangers of following these instructions are your responsibility. Acid will blind you and scar your lungs and copper is essentially a poison. So don’t get it on you or in you, or on or in anyone you don’t want dead. Do not attempt this if there is any possibility that children will have access to the chemicals. Children are sneaky little monsters that love to drink poisons just to make you feel guilty when you’re sitting in jail because you were a bad person who didn’t think that they could pick that lock on the shed. And don’t come crying to me when the EPA sizes all your assets and you end up on the front page of your local paper and all your former friends shake their heads in disgust at how you made all those spotted owls turn sickly green.

  25. Rat Rod Tony says:

    Great article. Long live rust!!

  26. garden shed says:

    It’s actually a cool and useful piece of information. I’m happy that you just shared this useful info with us. Please stay us informed like this. Thank you for sharing.

  27. site says:

    I have got one suggestion for your weblog. It appears like at this time there are a couple of cascading stylesheet problems when launching a selection of webpages within google chrome and firefox. It is operating alright in internet explorer. Probably you can double check that.

  28. Trish Mc says:

    This is exactly what we wanna do!!!! I knew it what be something easy that I have in my kitchen!!!!

  29. Michelle says:

    Gonna try it on my 1960 Ford Panel truck!

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